Everybody knows anything goes when custom building motorbikes and mixing up used parts with new is currently normal. But how about voyaging into unknown areas and using varied components which may have never been fused in the past? Sure, many times you'll can bust out the grinding machine and torch making both parts work, however, when it comes to wheels it's going to take a stack of info, extra precaution, and some luck.
On our bike build mission we hoped for some fine rims that were different from others and looked more traditional, but had sound pieces and wouldn't blow up and kill us when driven.
We sought out some support and gave our buddies Gary and Dave from Wheel Works a call. Having built all sorts of wild motorbike ideas and custom motorbike wheels skillfully since 1976, these guys have nearly done and seen almost everything pertaining to H-D wheels. When we discussed what we wished for, Gary and Dave listed us some great advice when searching for classic and obsolete rims.
They listed us quite a few quick advice a lot of people know already like do not use bent or rusted rims, or ever re-use spokes are a give in. However, these people put some true knowledge on us just like hunting for rims that have not been drilled. This is because every single motorbike has diverse thickness hubs and many already-drilled old MX wheels won't securely work with a lot of chopper hub offsets and widths simply because the spokes are forced in the rim as severe angles. This causes binding, which results in cracked hub flanges and wheels.
Talking about hubs, if you find quite a few old ones, make sure you can still get the appropriate bearings and inner spacers for them or they're every bit as good as a paperweight. When setting up rims for our homemade projects we typically pick a quality pair of stock hubs whatever the year and model merely because alternative parts are around every corner. We also like using the re-pop V-Twin Mfg. hubs with regards to classic style and up to date bearings. Out front if the spool hub should be put into use, we usually always opt for a fresh aluminum or steel unit. The truth is these parts were under significant tension for many years and not made of the best metals to begin with.
As far as spokes go, most rims needs to be rebuilt utilizing new spokes, since even still intact used spokes are stressed from many years of being drawn in one direction and will usually break when being tightened again through the tuning process. Additionally, would be to go for rubbed stainless spokes. They look just as good as chrome, but don't have the plating crack off and rust after some time due to the tension they are suffering.
More on spoke tension; our friends at Wheel Work told us this might be the only biggest part of a wheel project other than getting round. The right tightened feeling will guarantee that your rim is true in two ways: Laterally (sideways) and radial (roundness). The correct spoke tightened feeling is really important with motorbike rims, because of the torque given to the rim through the brakes or engine. Loose spokes over a rim fatigue rapidly and bust, commonly where they connect to the hub. And we don't want that.
After the wheels are finished and true, many also advise wrapping a whole new tire around the refurbished rims. Used tires are typically burnt on the inside and pretty much when affixed to a completely new wheel and fitted with 40 psi or more, they are a ticking time bomb that has a blowout being almost always eminent. Also, the rubberized mix applied 40-50 years ago has dried and often will produce slight to no grip at all on the street, wet or dry. Don't worry; you won't have to put on some tires that appear as if they came off a super bike. There are growing amount of re-popped classic tires for your ride. They've got all of the looks of a classic tire, but have enhancements in casing materials and work a lot better on our present-day road surfaces.
On our bike build mission we hoped for some fine rims that were different from others and looked more traditional, but had sound pieces and wouldn't blow up and kill us when driven.
We sought out some support and gave our buddies Gary and Dave from Wheel Works a call. Having built all sorts of wild motorbike ideas and custom motorbike wheels skillfully since 1976, these guys have nearly done and seen almost everything pertaining to H-D wheels. When we discussed what we wished for, Gary and Dave listed us some great advice when searching for classic and obsolete rims.
They listed us quite a few quick advice a lot of people know already like do not use bent or rusted rims, or ever re-use spokes are a give in. However, these people put some true knowledge on us just like hunting for rims that have not been drilled. This is because every single motorbike has diverse thickness hubs and many already-drilled old MX wheels won't securely work with a lot of chopper hub offsets and widths simply because the spokes are forced in the rim as severe angles. This causes binding, which results in cracked hub flanges and wheels.
Talking about hubs, if you find quite a few old ones, make sure you can still get the appropriate bearings and inner spacers for them or they're every bit as good as a paperweight. When setting up rims for our homemade projects we typically pick a quality pair of stock hubs whatever the year and model merely because alternative parts are around every corner. We also like using the re-pop V-Twin Mfg. hubs with regards to classic style and up to date bearings. Out front if the spool hub should be put into use, we usually always opt for a fresh aluminum or steel unit. The truth is these parts were under significant tension for many years and not made of the best metals to begin with.
As far as spokes go, most rims needs to be rebuilt utilizing new spokes, since even still intact used spokes are stressed from many years of being drawn in one direction and will usually break when being tightened again through the tuning process. Additionally, would be to go for rubbed stainless spokes. They look just as good as chrome, but don't have the plating crack off and rust after some time due to the tension they are suffering.
More on spoke tension; our friends at Wheel Work told us this might be the only biggest part of a wheel project other than getting round. The right tightened feeling will guarantee that your rim is true in two ways: Laterally (sideways) and radial (roundness). The correct spoke tightened feeling is really important with motorbike rims, because of the torque given to the rim through the brakes or engine. Loose spokes over a rim fatigue rapidly and bust, commonly where they connect to the hub. And we don't want that.
After the wheels are finished and true, many also advise wrapping a whole new tire around the refurbished rims. Used tires are typically burnt on the inside and pretty much when affixed to a completely new wheel and fitted with 40 psi or more, they are a ticking time bomb that has a blowout being almost always eminent. Also, the rubberized mix applied 40-50 years ago has dried and often will produce slight to no grip at all on the street, wet or dry. Don't worry; you won't have to put on some tires that appear as if they came off a super bike. There are growing amount of re-popped classic tires for your ride. They've got all of the looks of a classic tire, but have enhancements in casing materials and work a lot better on our present-day road surfaces.
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