A Big Twin's Powertrain is a non-unitized design. And that is, the gearbox is positioned apart from the engine, meaning the two should work side by side so that it can transfer power. That's where the primary drive, inside that huge aluminum case next to the rider's left boot, comes into play.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Being that the powertrain consists of a set of moving parts, you're going to have to render routine alterations in them to make sure they will function effectively. Over time, moving parts, just like the main drive's sprockets and chain, require replacing. As the parts degrade, they need tuning to help keep proper tolerance. And it's the primary driver's multi-row roller chain that should be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a rather undemanding procedure, at the same time, a method that you can do in your garage or shop.
Most of the action happens inside the inspection window that's reached by taking off the plate placed on by four mounting bolts. You'll need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the corrections. To adjust, release the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt a couple of turns and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
A great time to examine and fine-tune the main chain is when you have to drain and change the main case lube. Harley recommends its versatile manufactured oil, however, if you already have a preferred brand that's been produced for the primary drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you choose is specifically for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so utilize the time to check them for wear. Take a look at the chain's rollers to find out if they're getting full lubrication, and look the adjuster shoe for cracks and such. Examining and adjusting the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're finished you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on the next long drive. Just be sure to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" deep socket Ratchet Ratchet extension Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Standard maintenance such as adjusting the main chain can be carried out within your own garage area or shop when changing the main oil. Make sure the motorcycle is fixed in an upright position when you begin.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain into the drain pan. While it empties, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Make use of a T27 Torx socket to get rid of several bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in position. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket before you start to mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can look at the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for hints of deterioration. With the transmission in neutral, have the engine spin a few turns to inspect the whole chain.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. First is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The difference in the two on the chain's tightest point is the chain's slack.
7. Utilize a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set the free play from " and 7/8". Right after you have retightened the nut, again, make measurements of the slack to ensure that you have set the proper amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, additionally examine the adjuster shoe that's pressing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Compared with the engine and transmission drain plugs, you'll notice it doesn't have an O-ring. To aid in sealing it, rub a dab of sealant (for pipes) along the bottom edge of the bolt head.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Pump in 32 oz. of fluid. You need to add the right amount for your year and model bike.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Being that the powertrain consists of a set of moving parts, you're going to have to render routine alterations in them to make sure they will function effectively. Over time, moving parts, just like the main drive's sprockets and chain, require replacing. As the parts degrade, they need tuning to help keep proper tolerance. And it's the primary driver's multi-row roller chain that should be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a rather undemanding procedure, at the same time, a method that you can do in your garage or shop.
Most of the action happens inside the inspection window that's reached by taking off the plate placed on by four mounting bolts. You'll need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the corrections. To adjust, release the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt a couple of turns and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
A great time to examine and fine-tune the main chain is when you have to drain and change the main case lube. Harley recommends its versatile manufactured oil, however, if you already have a preferred brand that's been produced for the primary drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you choose is specifically for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so utilize the time to check them for wear. Take a look at the chain's rollers to find out if they're getting full lubrication, and look the adjuster shoe for cracks and such. Examining and adjusting the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're finished you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on the next long drive. Just be sure to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" deep socket Ratchet Ratchet extension Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Standard maintenance such as adjusting the main chain can be carried out within your own garage area or shop when changing the main oil. Make sure the motorcycle is fixed in an upright position when you begin.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain into the drain pan. While it empties, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Make use of a T27 Torx socket to get rid of several bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in position. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket before you start to mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can look at the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for hints of deterioration. With the transmission in neutral, have the engine spin a few turns to inspect the whole chain.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. First is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The difference in the two on the chain's tightest point is the chain's slack.
7. Utilize a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set the free play from " and 7/8". Right after you have retightened the nut, again, make measurements of the slack to ensure that you have set the proper amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, additionally examine the adjuster shoe that's pressing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Compared with the engine and transmission drain plugs, you'll notice it doesn't have an O-ring. To aid in sealing it, rub a dab of sealant (for pipes) along the bottom edge of the bolt head.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Pump in 32 oz. of fluid. You need to add the right amount for your year and model bike.
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