I use Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get an image perfect in camera for that reason I am not investing time for each and every graphic. The majority of my own images have been taken around half an hour.

A picture shot around mid day, may be affected by harsh and high sunlight. To overpower this I positioned my model in the shadows produced by the actual branches of a sizable palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sunlight reflecting soft warm illumination onto the front of my model.

I got a light measurement from the models face and shot at shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set to daylight.

This image has been shot on my D2H with a 24mm in order to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal size set from 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to stress her arms and legs also and then we had a excellent connection for creating great energy and leading.

Notice my own lens/eye level is within the middle of the woman's torso, this is very important when firing wide perspective and close to the subject to prevent distortion, ie if you shoot to high up your models head is going to be big and the girl legs will look like they are short like a hen and visa versa thus its crucial that you get your eye/camera lens level at the correct just the height in order to avoid distortion,

I will frequently shoot from your lower angle, particularly when I am trying to emphasize the gap of a designs legs with regard to hosiery images.

To keep heaven as blue as possible I shot with a polarizing filtration on my lens, looking towards the west of the particular midday sunshine. This is how you keep the sea and heaven blue along with making my models skin/tan look great an silky by getting rid of some of the particular specular reflections on her behalf skin.

In the event that I had been taking pictures facing more to the east the skies and the ocean would have been far more burned away..

When I started shooting digital I stood a lot of problems because I attempted to shoot digital exactly as I shot motion picture. Now when I am firing, I will always under expose in the meter reading, this is done for a couple of reasons, to be able to saturate shade as well as to make sure I am not necessarily loosing my personal high lights. Obviously my own images will be a little on the dark side however I can easily correct for this using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the retouching process.

I constantly shoot raw files and a little jpg, exactly why I will explain within another Tiny Gem.

I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open all of them in Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re image info and will bring about much better quality photos).

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